I'm planning to make a tiny jewelry box for a school project. So I've decided to make it with polymer clay, I've already bought the materials though I'm not sure if they're the ones I should be using to achieve the design for my jewelry box.
My planned design is highly detailed with a lot of ornaments and embossed decoration on..
Something like these styles..
https://carbon.liquidweb.com/~jansjewe/images/Image/P3010015.JPG (it's on a ring, that's how small I want my details to be)
http://craftedbyindians.com/images/nahprd127-b%20%20135.jpg
http://www.auntjudysattic.com/Vanity_sets/victorianjewelerybox2th.jpg
I'm having a problem with the clay I find it too hard, should I use a clay softener or will that make it too soft/liquify? It's also irritating me how easy the clay breaks off and how hard it is to fix it especially when it's the fine details that cracks..
Also, how can I make my polymer clay have a metallic surface and make it look antique at the same time? Is it possible?
One last thing, what types of clay sculpting tools or blades should I be using to create the fine details?
That's all.
Advanced thanks!
If the raw clay is too hard to be "conditioned" easily, you'll want to follow some of the suggestions on the Conditioning page at my polymer clay "encyclopedia" site to make sure it's completely *smooth and pliable* before beginning to do anything with it!
(Conditioning basically breaks down to warmth, stretching, and softeners, though there are a lot of possibilities within those techniques:
http://glassattic.com/polymer/Conditioning.htm )
When you say the clay "breaks off easily," I don't know if you mean before or after it's cured. If it's afterward, you probably didn't condition the clay well, or you didn't attach it well enough (there are techniques for that).
Also, if you're using original Sculpey, SuperSculpey, or Sculpey III, those particular brands and lines will break more easily after baking than the other brands/lines (like Premo, FimoClassic, Kato, and even FimoSoft –or SuperSculpey-Firm if you don't want colors) any place where they're thin or projecting.
You can read more about making good joins with polymer clay and about the different brands and lines on these pages:
http://glassattic.com/polymer/glues-Diluent.htm (click on "Some Bonding Techniques")
http://glassattic.com/polymer/Characteristics.htm
(And if the clay is "breaking" when it's still raw, then you probably just haven't conditioned it well enough so it isn't staying together and acting as one mass.)
There are various ways to make polymer clay look like metal and also to "antique" it (or to do one and not the other).
Check out these pages for more on those topics (I can't use more than 10 links in one message, so instead of giving full links, I'll just give you the names of each of the pages at my site and you can go to them by clicking on their names from inside the alphabetical navigation bar on the left side of this page (or any page at the site):
http://glassattic.com/polymer/contents.htm
Fauxs >Metals
Powders >Mica Powders (or >Real-Metal Powders)
….(for antiquing, see the Molds page below for the most info)
As for creating the fine "details," you can just create them by hand with very simple tools by creating the shapes then "onlaying" them, or you can "carve" them… or more likely, you can create them with stamps or texturing tools or with molds.
These pages have lots of info on those topics, as well as info on which blades are most often used with polymer clay (though not necessarily when *sculpting* it):
Stamping
Texturing
Molds (and also >Highlighting & Antiquing)
Onlays >Dimensional Onlays
Carving
Tools >Beginner Tools
Sculpting-Bodies-Tools >Tools
Cutters and Blades >Blades
Oh, and if you're interested in making boxes (small or large) with polymer clay, there are lots of ways of making them… also check out these pages:
Vessels > Boxes
Vessels-Rock-Alum.Foil > Small Container Vessels
HTH,
Diane B.
powered by Yahoo Answers